This decadent, resinous, comforting note owes its name to its sticky, honey-hued appearance and is commonly used to add richness, depth, creaminess and warmth to fragrances.
Often mistakenly associated with the famous semi-precious jewel, perfumery amber is instead a ‘fantasy note’ resulting from a sultry, spicy, sweet and slightly boozy blend of ingredients such as vanilla, benzoin, labdanum and musk. This captivating mix takes the name of ‘amber accord’ and is commonly used as a base for the so-called “oriental fragrances” (now simply referred to as “amber fragrances”).
The Amber category is also well known for ingredients such as Ambergris and its synthetic counterpart, Ambroxan, characterised by a slight animalic aroma, that we will delve into in a dedicated article later on.
Now, we will go through two of the most renowned notes, traditionally used for their ambery features: labdanum and benzoin (or styrax benzoin).
Labdanum: one of the oldest known scents throughout history, labdanum was casually discovered in ancient times. Originally, it was ‘combed out’ from goats hair (yes, you’ve heard right), that in the hotter days ended up being impregnated with a sticky, aromatic resin from the shrubs these goats used to eat from. Nowadays, as animal exploitation for cosmetic purposes is prohibited in most countries, this fascinating ingredient is extracted from these plants directly; Labdanum is in fact the name of the resin (or gum) that seeps out of the cistus ladanifer, a bush that grows in Mediterranean countries. Before being integrated into fragrances, this thick resin goes through a heating process that makes it softer and sticky, ready to be used. It is characterised by a rich, leathery, sweet, almost syrupy aroma with a warm incense undertone.
Benzoin: coming from the styrax tree, benzoin is another resin with a marked smokey nature; it is indeed considered the smokiest of resins and before being introduced in perfumery it has been traditionally used in incense for a long time. Its sweet, cosy and spicy facets reminiscent of vanilla and cinnamon, together with a slightly boozy, whiskey aroma are often chosen to highlight richness in amber scents. An added benefit of its use is to increase fragrance persistence, slowing down the release of scent.
Check out my latest limited-edition discovery box ‘Amber’ and try out some of my favourite fragrances featuring this incredible note.
Love,
Isabelle x